Help with jet boat exhaust

Above is a picture of the transom exhaust that came with my Berkley jet and engine. I am looking for help finding the portion that is designed to go through the transom and connect the pictured rubber fittings with the exhaust hose. Also in the picture is one of two ball valves attached to the cooling water feed into the the log. Where are they normally plumbed to? They are connected to a tee and with the valve wide open, would starve the log of cooling water.

The Arch-Druid Energy Contest

The following press release is part of ArchDruid Greers competition on completely reasonable energy sources that can easily power civilization to an eternally enduring  future among the stars

For accredited investors only, this investment opportunity is for those high net worth individuals that are not legally obligated to follow SCC rules.

Today, Lockheed-Martin and Monsanto corporation announce their joint venture limited liability corporation, Space Tree Elevator and Power corp. The scientists at STEP have bio-engineered GMO spiders that can spin carbon fibre webs, and Lockheed-Martin has contributed patented nanobot  weaving technology originally designed to produce bullet proof stealth aircraft armour into new honeycomb sandwich load bearing tubes. These tubes will be woven into a 22,000 foot high structure reaching into geo-synchronous orbit.

The structure will form a number of spacious tubes from the sea floor just off an undisclosed equatorial country to orbit, and provide for a electric elevator to easily transport construction material into space. At the orbital end of the structure, large mirrors made of Mylar, each several kilometres across, will direct sunlight down similar tubes lined with a mirror finish, and boil seawater at the base of the structure. The resulting steam will be fed through turbo-generators to generate electricity, and the waste steam will be directed up more tubes to high altitude where it will be condensed into pure water. This water will flow back down to more hydro turbines, before being captured and sold to those areas needing drinking water. Valves will be designed to regulate the flow so that power is available 24/7.

The mirrors will be able to be independently aimed, enabling defence of the structure against foreign control, and the ability to enhance sunlight levels on terrestrial targets to conditions that prevent human encroachment or interference.

Initial profits will come from carbon capture grants from various governments, due to the amount of carbon that will be incorporated in the carbon fibre structure, then once the space elevator is functioning, from ongoing tariffs on transported freight, and power and water sales inherent in the design. A series of these towers will be built around the equator, to provide ideal communications platforms with serviceable electronic bays.

Future plans will include superconducting heat pipes to transport excess heat from the tropics out to space, and the corresponding grants from those governments interested in combating global warming.  

Minimum initial investment is US$ 10,000,000. Once regime change has been completed it the target country, existing reserves in the national treasury will be accounted for and an additional US$ 15,000,000 to US$ 20,000,000 will be required. Complimentary senior military ranks and or knighthoods will be bestowed as requested.

The 2014 sailboat update

The 2014 Sailboat Update, or yes I actually made progress

OK, the progress is almost all prep work, but it has to get done. Note I did waste a lot of time maintaining employment, and installing brick siding on the house, which still isn't complete.

Major items: I have a place to build now! I have cleared space in my old barn, so have an open 16x40 foot space, with the ceiling between 10' on one edge and 8' on the other. I had originally dismissed this an appropriate location because the garage door is only 7' high, but while contemplating how to repair the wall it is in I realized I need to remove that section of wall to do it right anyways, so I will wait until it is time to remove the boat before I attempt that repair (remove wall, pull out boat, re-install repaired wall) I am also clearing space in the other side of the barn to set up the table saw and radial arm saw, as well as any other miscellaneous tools.

I also managed to take my Mayflower sailing dingy out for a few spins, and sat down on my birthday and wrote (and passed) my boat licence exam (required in Canada for anyone in control of a boat with any type of motor on it)

 I am still going to copy most of Dave Zieger's excellent Triloboat plans, as every post he makes on his build causes me to adjust my plans, usually closer to what he has built. Most of the boat will be the same T8x32, with the exceptions being the galley and adding an engine. There are also plumbing  and access differences to enable the use of the boat while still on the trailer, and while sailing in "No Discharge Zones"

The galley will go from Dave's minimalist approach to  being closer to a regular RV one. I am planning on making the sole with a 12 inch elevation, and 2 steps down to the saloon. The is an adjustment from Dave because I am 5'7 and Sherri is 5'3, much shorter than Dave and Anke. The outboard space under the sole/counters, will be for water tanks, I think that a 50 gallon tank on both sides is doable. I will copy Dave's head design, but will put down a grating and have a shower sump pump. Under the grating there will be room for a thru-hull with strainer and pump, to allow lake or sea water to be used in the sink and on deck as a wash down water supply. The trial composting toilet will also go in this space, with minor modifications. The kitchen sink will go beside the flip up counter, and a tankless water heater will be set up such that the hot water can be used for washing dishes or having a shower (I don't anticipate simultaneous use here) Still deciding on the model of heater, as the cheaper outdoor shower heaters would need to be mounted outside on the cabin bulkhead, making temperature adjustment more difficult. I could install a mixing valve to regulate the temperature like in a regular shower :)

I like the idea of a wood burning stove, but have not decided on which model. I found a really cute one, a "Little Cod" as watching a fire is more important than using an oven for what we do.

I will build a top opening super insulated fridge freezer box, and install the guts of a 120 volt fridge in it. I am looking at buying a new fridge for the house kitchen and sacrificing the existing 2002 kitchen fridge, as the outside plastic trim is cracked and we would like an all-fridge fridge for that location anyways. The existing fridge/freezer was the most energy efficient consumer level one I could find when I bought it, and I just did power measurements so I know what it draws. The max running watts once the 350w defrost was off  was only 150w, and that dropped down to 120w near the end of it's cycle. I need to see if it runs off my little 400w inverter or if I need to use the big 2500w one. I will put a switch on the defrost so it could only work while on shore power, or just unplug to defrost manually (more likely).

A combo microwave toaster oven will likely be installed as that is how we warm things up when travelling, and am looking for a 2 burner propane stove top for the rest of the cooking appliances. We run the microwave in the RV right now off the 2500w inverter, and for how long it actually draws power the batteries have no problem with it. I currently run 3 group 27 deep cycle batteries in the RV, but they are over 10 years old so will purchase four 6v golf cart batteries to replace them.

Below the cockpit and back will be the biggest differences, As I intend to install an engine. I wanted something that would not interfere with the shoal draft, and came down to either multiple electric trolling motors or a jet pump. Dave recommended avoiding the jet due to fuel consumption,  but I realized that by simply limiting the run time, I could control the fuel consumption best. If I really need the power assist, I can make the call on if the 2.5G/10l an hour consumption is worth it (estimated from highway speed mileage figures, actual numbers in the real world to be determined) The other factor was cost and being able to reuse stuff I already had. The more powerful trolling motors are 24v or 36v. I have a 12v trolling motor, and my 2500w inverter and house bank batteries are all 12v. The price of a used Berkley jet pump, with a fully marineized 350in Oldsmobile gas motor, was less than a single new 24v electric trolling motor, and I believe I can  take enough  of the marine bits off the 350 and use them to make a marine version out of my old 2.4l diesel Mercedes project car (abandoned as a bio-diesel project due to excessive body and frame rust). Anyways, I bought the jet and motor and it's home now, so I can set it up and take measurements in order to figure out how to mount it.

Going with the jet pump, I need to either offset the rudder enough that the pump spray doesn't damage it, and or make a dual rudder system (it adds redundancy, but also cost) Also, does a single rudder offset really matter, since the heel angle in a boat like this will likely never get it out of the water regardless of which tack I am on?

The accessory to be added last is a set of davits to lift a tender out of the water, fitted on the back of the boat. This same structure will provide a place to put solar panels and a block for the aft sail sheets to go through.

My plan for 2015 is to go and buy some appropriate plywood and stuff and start assembly, not sure how far I will get, but if I don't start, I will never finish

Dennis Donohue