Some Paint

 After the last few months where various outside tasks, a trip to Hawaii, and a chance to crew on a friends sailboat during some races on a local lake, I am back at work boat building. I decided to paint some of the areas that were already finished otherwise

The storage area under the front bunk has a bunch of small pieces that will enable the hot air from  the stove area to be circulated around the cabin.

Here is a detail of the shelves on the starboard side  of the bunk. I am gluing in some bits of wood to prevent the cover from collapsing inward when leaned on.

Here is a shot of the paint (actually stain) that I am using. I am using an exterior stain so hopefully it will deal with any moisture without any problems.
As a side note, my painting skills are more of "Fence Painter" then they are of "Glossy High Dollar Boat Painter", as I am using a brush, and seem to consistently err on the side of more paint then less. Also, I am painting over rough building plywood, that I have done very minimal sanding to. As long as there are no slivers and the wood is sealed, it meets my requirements.
One day I may go back and refinish those areas that are visible, after I get the boat sailing and have a chance to laze around and critique the job, but I suspect that will be a few years off yet.

Pole and leg details





Sorry about formatting, I am having trouble with Blogger today

Table leg



This post is to show some of the construction details on how I ended up



Base of table leg

Building some of the bits and pieces, such as the table leg that will also become a horizontal support when everything is folded down to create a large flat space. An additional piece of plywood about 6" wide will be attached to the upper side of the leg (when it is in the horizontal position)

Table leg horizontal

When a large flat space is desired, the table is lowered, the table leg is put in place across to the settee, the settee is pulled out 9", and the two seat backs are placed between the table and settee.This will give an area thirteen feet long and six and a half wide. the cushions will not cover this area completely, so will probably be stacked off to the side. The surface will match the height of the galley sole, so a 24" wide by twenty foot long area is also possible.

















top of pole outboard, with barrel bolt detail



There is a removable pole that holds the inboard forward end of the dinette seat back, cut to hold the seat angle formed with three inches of lean back. the middle of the pole is 1.5 x 1.5 inches, rounded to a nice to grip shape.

Rough cut seat back, still needs rounded edges

Fuzzy picture of pole in place

mortise and tenon

tenon on bottom of pole and matching cutout in the plywood seat bottom. This piece of plywood will be glued down to the seat frame. 

top of pole,inboard

I added a bit of wood at the top to center the barrel bolt in the beam 

Finally, this under the aft end of the settee, this is where the fans to circulate hot air from above the stove around the bunk to under the dinette will be located. I have not picked up the fans, so no holes are cut yet 

Air vent under bunk routing Feb 27 2016

 Today's progress was putting in supports to hold up the bunk. A while back, I was having an e-mail conversation with Dave Z, about a clever idea I saw in one of the Junk Rig Association magazines, where someone in a northern boat was finding his feet cold while visiting mid winter. His solution was to make a tube of cloth with a small fan at one end, blowing  heat from up by the roof down to the floor. Dave said he was thinking about an air passage from under the dinette, around the bunk, and up beside the wood stove. Here is my interpretation of that, in progress.

Here are the air holes, from either side, penetrating the port side saloon to bunk bulkhead. I am doing a balancing act in their location, wanting a location out of the way of storage, without weakening the bulkhead too much. There is about 10 square inches of  air hole, as well as a limber hole.

A second layer of plywood will be screwed to the outside, so it is removable for annual painting and  cleaning. This will give a 3 inch wide channel, about 8 inches high across the foot of the bunk. It's amazing how much time is consumed trying to figure out these little details. Hopefully everything will work and I will get toasty warm toes when running the wood stove